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globe-trotters.chDana & Mathias on Tour |
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We land in Valencia, rent a car, and head to the Costa Blanca. By chance, oncle Don Emilio and aunt Hildegard are just spending a couple of weeks in their vacation house by Altea.
We wake up in the Mediteranean. In the garden grow olive trees a hundred years old.
The air is filled with jasmin.
Flowers of all colors climb the sandstone walls.
The sun bathes in the sea. Behind the house peaks the jagged skyline of Sierra Bernia. Beautiful place.
We spend a wonderful time with Don Emilio and Hildegard. We are grateful for the tapas, the paella con camarones, and Ribera del Duero wines, realizing that we were missing this kind of cuisine quite a bit!
Mahtias writes the last lines of his PhD articles.
Over the last twenty years, long stretches of Costa Blanca have been barricaded with rather ugly megahotels and row houses. Places such as Benidorm and Calpe have changed beyond recognition. Everyday flights from Newcastle or Zurich to Alicante bring thousands of tourists to the region. Here in Santa Clara, the nights are still tranquil and warm enough to read on the terrace.
We learn that the Canadian border authorities took our car out of the container. The car was released soon after but the freight forwarder CP Ships forgot to put it on the next ship..
We will spend some more time on the Costa Blanca. There is more to discover than the beaches. Dramatic Sierra Bernia is criss-crossed with trails and goat tracks leading through savage gorges and orange rock avalanches to Moor ruins, long gone castles, abandoned almond plantations, or just breathtaking vistas.
The barancos are overgrown with waist high erica, wild thyme and rosemary, and aromatic pines.
Of Islamic origins, the village of Guadalest was a military stronghold of great strategic importance, and is site of several ancient castles, although earthquakes and battles during the War of Spanish Succession in the 18th century reduces most castles to little more than shells. The village hides protected behind an opening in the rocks.
The shining white houses accomodate little craftshops, cafes, and museums. We skip the Museum of Torture and opt for modern art. There are many works of art on display, from the elaborate to the comical, such as the "Man eating Hotdog".
We leave behind the Costa Blanca and the orange plantations of Valenciana and enter the deserted region of small roads and very isolated farm houses.
After a while, picturesque medieval villages of Aragon start to appear. Although this is tierra incognita for most tourists, Aragon is one of the most historic regions of Spain.
In the past, Aragon's poor soil made farmers' life difficult. Today, the sandy-stony earth produces wines with character. After Rioja and Ribera del Duero, Carinena emerges as another exciting wine region of Spain.
Apart from bodegas, we pay visit to local ham producers.
The cured hams from happy pigs nourishing on herbs and acorns, called pata nera, taste absolute exquisite. They are even supposed to reduce bad cholesterol!! No excuses.
Morrocan shepherds wave hands as we drive on the windy road to Zaragoza.
Zaragoza is the culminant point in the Valley of Ebro, Spains most water-bearing river. The city was founded 2000 years ago. Old-Iberians, Romans, Gots, and Arabians all left their heritage. One of the cathedrals, Basilica de Nuestra Segnora del Pilar, attracts masses of pilgrims from all over the Spain.
The baroque building from the 17th century received elements from other styles in subsequent periods.
The interior accomodates high, magnificent alabaster altar.
Frescoes from Goya and Gonzalez Velasquez are equally impressive. A lot to see in Zaragoza.
We drive through Navarra to the Basque country. The mornings are already chilly.
Near Biaritz, kids are still surfing in the ocean.